Forums: Whisstock Designs: Design 077; Bill of Materials New Topic Post Reply
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Posted: Aug 30th, 2009 at 17:59   |   Subject: Design 077; Bill of Materials
Hello again! ...been looking through all the plan materials and haven't come across a BoM. Is one available? Just would like to know the number of ply sheets required, for instance, or how much paint it'll take... things like that. Thanks for any input!
Posted: Aug 30th, 2009 at 21:59   |   Subject: Design 077; Bill of Materials
I am pretty bad on Bills of Materials – mostly because they are hard to get right and I don't like doing them!

However I will post plywood and epoxy estimates, plus the sq m areas of various surfaces, which will give you a good means of estimating paint and so forth. Solid timber is really hard to get right because there are so many options in the way you can buy your timber.

It may take me a few days .....

Best regards

Posted: Sep 13th, 2009 at 04:10   |   Subject: Bill of Materials
Looking forward to having at least the plywood listing, so I can place an order with reasonable expectation of receiving the shipment before the snow flies, which sometimes seems would be any day, now... light frosts at night already, and the leaves are falling fast.

Got to get back to work.. need to clean the woostove chimney and split another cord or two. Winter sure makes me love the spring.

Best, always.
Posted: Sep 13th, 2009 at 19:19   |   Subject: Design 077 – Ply quantities
Well I did say I wasn't very good at it! Sorry for the delay. It is posted on the website now (in the Specifications section of the List of Plans).

The ply quantities include the hull, transom. decks, superstructure, cockpit, main hatch, rudder, centrecase and centreboard, and interior furniture.

The WEST™ quantities are my best estimate; two C-packs might not be quite enough – three are probably rather more than you will need.
Posted: Sep 14th, 2009 at 09:24   |   Subject: Thanks so much!
I did attempt to come-up with a listing on my own before asking for your assistance.. it was frustrating. Thanks so much for the help!
Posted: Sep 14th, 2009 at 22:11   |   Subject: Design 077 - Ply Quantities
Well I just hope I'm reasonably accurate .....

Posted: Sep 27th, 2009 at 10:57   |   Subject: Design 077; Frames
How would Okoume 3mm plywood be for laminating the frames? I'm guessing if ply had been a good choice, you would have included 3mm sheets in the materials listing, still, it's worth asking about...

By the way, are the modifications to the galley for the porta-loo coming along? I don't see how one would fit it in; the geometry is all wrong... how to keep it out of the walkway while having it close enough to the sole to permit adequate headroom while in use. Can it actually be done?

Anyway, I've been collecting lead for the keel; I'll be casting it myself. I'm up to 250lbs, (113 kilograms). If this turns out alright, I'll send photos of the process... if it's a disaster, however, I'll be keeping it to myself!

My wife thinks this project is more than I can handle. Wonder if she knows what a wonderful motivator it is every time I hear "you're biting off more than you can chew!" ...she's the best wife I ever had.

Hope things are going well for everyone, and that the fall weather is providing lots of opportunity for terrific end-of-the-season boating.

Posted: Sep 28th, 2009 at 12:39   |   Subject: Design 077 - Bill of Materials
3mm okoume ply would be fine for laminating the frames. It is also fine for the outer two skins of the cold moulded hull.

This is true of all the pocket cruisers - the reason I haven't mentioned it in the instructions etc, or the plans, goes back to the time when none of the designs were online and they were mostly sold in the UK as paper plans -- and suitable 3mm ply wasn't easily available -- and 3mm khaya veneers were.

So thank you for raising this. I will try to incorporate a note of this in the designs.

To cold-mould the outer two layers should need about 17 to 18 sheets. To laminate the frames should take 3 sheets. You can also make the floors, and the floor sections of the frames from ply layers. For the 25mm floors us two layers of 12mm. For the 30mm floor on the mast frame, use a 9 + 12 + 9 combination. This is also true of the blocking in the frame corners (sheer and coachroof).

The frames can also be made from ply layers sandwiched together in the fore-and-aft direction. In this case, the sizes of the frames need to be increased a little because the frames are not quite so strong.

Frames 25 sided x 36 moulded would become 27 sided (3 off 9mm ply layers) by 40 moulded depth.

Frames 30 sided x 42 moulded would become 36 sided (4 off 9mm or 3 off 12mm) by 45 moulded depth.

Made this way, the floor sections and the corner chocks are all included in the ply layers, they are not separate bits. The same goes for the main bulkhead, Frame -2695: the bulkhead part is included as one of the 9mm layers.

As we produce DXF files for the designs (a slow process at the moment), basically for CNC cutting of parts, this form of structure will be adopted.

Be careful casting the lead keel - there are pretty bad fumes - and the molten lead to contend with too. You need enough heating power to pour it all pretty much at once, or certainly pretty quickly, else the first pour cools off before the second pour has gone in - and so on - and you get a layered keel rather than a coherent whole. You need to know the heating output of your heating apparatus so you can calculate the time to heat the weight of lead. You will need extra lead, because of the impurities, dirt etc, which you skim off the top.

Several builders have poured their own keels. I think most have dug a hole in the earth and set the keel pattern in it and then poured cement around (and under) it. Once the cement goes off, you can withdraw the pattern and you have your mould.

Because this keel has a curved top, you need to cast it on its side.

I will look at the porta-loo