Forums: Whisstock Designs: Veneer for 067 New Topic Post Reply
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stavros
Posted: Aug 28th, 2012 at 13:23   |   Subject: Veneer for 067
Hi George,

I recently purchased the 067 plans and have started looking at sources for materials. It appears that sourcing 3mm veneers here in South Africa is quite difficult as the most common thicknesses used are between 0.6mm and 1.5mm.

I have been able to find one source that has 2mm Sapele and I am wondering if that would be good enough. I appreciate that more work would have to be done to get the frames to the correct thickness. Would you consider Sapele good enough?

My other alternative would be to place an order with a mill for the correct thickness but would be required to purchase a minimum amount. Would you be able to advise on how much veneer I would need for this design?

Thanks
Stavros

debenriver
Posted: Aug 28th, 2012 at 23:03   |   Subject: Veneer for 067
Hi Stavros

It really doesn't matter about the veneer thickness or the species of timber. So 2mm Sapele veneers would be fine. It is, as you say, just rather more work.

If the veneers get too thin, it does start to get difficult to clamp them round in place without making "kinks" where the clamp feet are. So in practical terms 1.5mm is probably the thinnest.

You can also use ply. 3mm or 4mm ply would make perfectly satisfactory laminates. You might get a bit of a problem with 4mm around the deck-hull radius. Wetting it out very thoroughly will help. You would need to experiment. You can increase the radius if necessary.

3mm ply will also be very satisfactory for the cold-moulded hull (if this is what you intend doing) in place of the 3mm veneers. Just slice the ply up into about 100mm - 120mm strips. Again, experiment a bit.

The other option, if you get stuck for laminates (either ply or veneer) is to make the frames from thicker ply, sandwich fashion. In this way each frame has (usually) three layers of ply cut out to the frame profile and bonded together in layers like a sandwich.

You can emulate the edge bevel by making the outer edge of each ply layer a slightly different size, thus producing a stepped bevel. When bonding on the hull skin, the epoxy will fill the "steps" OK.

To get the size of the middle layer of the three, extrapolate between the fwd and aft layers.

To make sure that the sandwich plies stay in the right place (i.e. inner edges flush), arrange to bore, say 8mm diameter holes and secure with a short length of 8mm dowel rod.

If you want to go this way, I could provide some drawings. And of course, frame components made this way are perfect for CNC laser or router cutting.

Hope this helps

George